Alloy Wheel Fitment Guide for India (PCD, Offset, Bore)

A wheel can look perfect in photos and still be wrong for your car. Fitment is the set of measurements that decide whether a wheel bolts up safely, clears your brakes and suspension, sits flush in the arch and carries the weight of your vehicle. Get it right and the car drives exactly as it should. Get it wrong and you invite vibration, rubbing, stress on wheel bearings, or in the worst case a wheel that simply will not mount.

In India this matters even more because our roads punish wheels. Potholes, broken edges, unmarked speed breakers and long highway stretches all load a wheel differently. A set that is correct on paper but under-rated for your vehicle, or sitting at the wrong offset, will show its weakness the first time you hit a deep pothole at speed. So before falling in love with a finish or a spoke design, it is worth understanding the five numbers that govern fitment.

This guide walks through each of them in plain language, then explains how we confirm a fit for your exact car and variant before anything is made.

PCD, or Pitch Circle Diameter, describes the bolt pattern. It is written as two numbers, for example 5x114.3. The first number is how many bolt holes the wheel has. The second is the diameter in millimetres of the imaginary circle that passes through the centre of those holes. A 5x114.3 wheel has five bolts arranged on a 114.3 mm circle, and it will only mount on a hub built for that exact pattern.

Indian cars cluster around a few common patterns. The Hyundai Creta, Kia Seltos, Kia Sonet, Honda City and Tata Nexon use 5x114.3. The Maruti Swift uses 4x100. Body-on-frame and larger SUVs such as the Mahindra Thar, Thar Roxx, Scorpio-N and Toyota Fortuner use 6x139.7. The Mahindra XUV700 and Maruti Jimny use 5x139.7. Volkswagen and Skoda models like the Virtus and Slavia use 5x112, while the Tata Harrier and Safari use 5x108.

PCD is non-negotiable. There is no safe way to force a wheel of the wrong bolt pattern onto a hub, so this is always the first thing we check. If the PCD is wrong, nothing else matters.

Offset, marked as ET followed by a number, is the distance between the wheel's mounting face and its true centre line. A higher positive offset pulls the wheel inward toward the suspension. A lower or negative offset pushes it outward toward the fender, giving a wider, more aggressive stance. The number is in millimetres and even a 10 to 15 mm change is clearly visible and felt.

Offset is a balancing act. Too much positive offset and the wheel tucks in, which can look weak and may foul on suspension components. Too little and the tyre pokes past the arch, rubbing the fender on bumps and full lock, and adding stress to bearings. For most Indian SUVs and sedans the safe window is fairly narrow, and we keep new wheels close to the factory offset unless you specifically want a flush or wide look and accept the trade-offs.

Track width changes with offset too. Pushing wheels outward widens the stance slightly, which can improve planted feel but also exposes the tyre's outer shoulder to kerbs. We always weigh stance against clearance for your specific variant.

The centre bore is the diameter of the hole in the middle of the wheel that sits over the hub. For the wheel to run true, this bore must locate precisely on the hub. When the bore matches the hub exactly it is called hub-centric, and the hub itself carries the weight while centring the wheel perfectly.

Many aftermarket alloys are made with a slightly larger bore so one design can fit several cars. That gap is closed with hub rings, which are precise plastic or aluminium spacers that fill the space between the wheel bore and the hub. With correct hub rings the wheel sits hub-centric, runs smoothly and avoids the steering-wheel vibration that comes from a wheel centred only by its bolts.

We always confirm the centre bore for your car and supply the correct hub rings where they are needed, so the set runs vibration-free from the first drive.

Every wheel has a maximum load it is built to carry, expressed in kilograms per wheel. This must comfortably exceed the share of your vehicle's loaded weight that each wheel bears. A heavy SUV carrying passengers and luggage on a long highway run puts far more demand on its wheels than a light hatchback in the city.

This is where cheap, generic wheels become dangerous. A wheel rated for a light car will flex, crack or fail under the weight and impacts of a full-size SUV, especially over Indian potholes. For vehicles like the Thar, Scorpio-N, XUV700 and Fortuner, an adequate load rating is the single most important safety number after PCD. We only recommend wheels whose load rating suits your vehicle's kerb weight plus a realistic margin.

The reliable way to confirm fitment is to start from your exact car, variant and year, not just the model name. Variants within the same model can run different factory wheel sizes, brake sizes and tyre profiles, all of which affect what fits cleanly. Knowing whether you have a base or top variant, and whether the car already runs the stock alloy or a steel wheel, removes most of the guesswork.

From there we match PCD, target diameter and width, a sensible offset and the correct centre bore, then confirm the load rating suits your vehicle. We also factor in tyre choice, because the wheel and tyre work as a pair and together they decide arch clearance and ride quality.

Because every set here is made to order, you do not have to gamble. Tell us your car and variant on WhatsApp and we will confirm the exact fitment, the right offset and the hub rings you need before anything goes into production.